Using a Mortar and Pestle

A knife or a blender cuts. A pestle crushes and grinds, which breaks food open and releases its oils and juices. That’s why a paste made in a mortar can taste quite different from the same ingredients blitzed in a machine, and why freshly ground spices smell so much stronger than ready-ground ones.

Choosing one

• GraniteHeavy and slightly rough, so things don’t slide around. Good for pastes, garlic and whole spices.
• MarbleSmoother. Fine for soft herbs and powders, less grip for hard seeds.
• WoodLight and quiet, but it absorbs smells and oils. Best kept for dry spices.
• SizeA small mortar sends seeds flying. One that holds at least a cup is easier to use.

How to use it

1. Work in small amounts.
2. Start with the hardest or driest things, such as salt, peppercorns or toasted seeds. Salt also helps grind softer things like garlic and herbs.
3. Pound with short, straight strokes to break things up, then grind in circles against the side to make a paste.
4. Add oil or liquid last, a little at a time.

To clean it, rinse with hot water and scrub with a brush. Stone is slightly porous, so it’s best to skip soap, which can leave a taste. Let it dry fully before putting it away.